A vibrant tension ran through the collection Lucie and Luke Meier introduced at Jil Sander for resort, which built on the duo’s ability to elevate simplicity and soften rigorous silhouettes with textures and artisanal touches. As their tenure at the brand progresses, the sense of warmth and personal sensibility they pour into their collections expands, solidifying the poetic, distinctive trait of their work.
For resort, the Meiers continued to explore the dialogue between the brand’s signature sharp aesthetic and a feminine, romantic feel, charmingly joining the two facets with an overarching spirit of lightness and ease.
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“It can’t be too complicated,” said Luke Meier. “You have to live your life and then clothes should be an accessory to your mood and environment. We always have that in mind while working: If it gets too fussy, too complicated, it doesn’t feel really right for the moment,” he added, defining “this kind of immediacy” as modern.
This approach percolated through both essential and more decorative pieces, encompassing monochromatic tunics with graphic plunging necklines, jersey dresses with soft silhouettes, taffeta frocks with ruffles or with delicate fil coupé floral embroideries.
The most striking effects came from the juxtaposition of tight and voluminous shapes, as seen in a look that paired a compact tank top with extra-ample, fluid pants. Those pleated pants looked even better when combined with a double-breasted blazer worn over a buttoned-up shirt. File under: Uniform dressing at its chic best.
There were plenty of other game changers, including tuxedo shirtdresses and a show-stopping pink shearling coat. A beautiful white frock playing with transparencies and layers of cotton voile and a yellow coat with bell sleeves and foulard made a case for “deflated couture” pieces, as Lucie Meier put it to address the focus on fluidity.
Meanwhile, her husband reiterated the importance of artisanal touches, pointing to details such as big knots defining the straps of a jersey dress as well as handmade, irregularly shaped glass buttons adding a precious accent to graphic coats or enabling women to manipulate the volume of a knit frock.
Launch Gallery: Jil Sander Resort 2023
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